The upstairs level of the home was always more hot or cold depending on the season than the rest of the home below. Mold in the attic was also a problem explained by the homeowner. The upstairs level of the home was much warmer at the time of inspection than the floor below. Visual mold was covering about 75% of the roof deck. Blocked soffits without baffles and lack of ventilation in the attic caused mold to grow on the roof deck and trusses. The Attic was under insulated with encapsulated fiberglass insulation that was torn due to foot traffic within the attic. A drop down shower ceiling soffit was also left uncovered allowing humidity to leak into the attic. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because he joined us in the attic for the inspection and was able to see how having the soffits blocked and being under insulated was causing moisture to build up in the attic and cause mold to grow. The homeowners biggest concern was getting the mold removed from the attic and better insulating his attic to better control the heating/cooling of the rooms below.

  The homeowner chose TCI Remediation to do the project because during the inspection of the attic we were able to demonstrate what needed to be done in a clear and informative way that made sense to the homeowner to fix the problem within the attic. We build a level of trust with the homeowner to ensure him that our solution would take care of the mold problem and provide a more comfortable home. We treated the mold in the attic and covered the drop down ceiling with SilverGlo and air sealed it tight. We then cleared the soffits of insulation and installed the proper amount of baffles to insure the attic was breathing properly. We capped off the existing insulation with TruSoft Cellulose to get the attic to a R-60 R-value to reduce the risk of moisture leaking into the attic from the conditioned home and to provide a better thermal barrier between the attic floor and the rooms below the attic. We had difficulties getting the SilverGlo into the attic scuttle due to the size of the opening. We had to cut smaller pieces which made the job take a little bit longer than usual. We used MoldX2 and MoldX2 Botanical to rid the attic mold. We also used a combination of insulation products including TruSoft Stabilized Cellulose and SilverGlo Polystyrene Foam Board. Zyp Foam was used to air-seal the drop down soffit above the shower. DuroVent duel wide baffles were installed for proper ventilation from soffits. The Homeowner now has a mold free attic and a better insulated attic that will provide a more comfortable home.

  The homeowner explained that she had mold in her attic after an initial home inspection was made for a home sale. The symptoms of the problem were mold growth on the sheathing and trusses in the attic and rusted roofing nails. The problem was caused by the soffits being blocked and not allowing air to pass through the soffits up to the ridge vent. The attic also had between R-6 and R-11 insulation on the attic floor which was not providing an adequate thermal boundary between the conditioned space inside the home and the unconditioned space in the attic. The homeowner chose to have the problems fixed in her attic because she was in the process of trying to sell her home but was faced with rejection from the possible buyers because of the mold that was in the attic. The homeowners biggest concern with the problem was not being able to find someone interested in buying the home while mold was present in the home.

  The homeowner chose our company because of our fast response time for an inspection to our production date. We were able to have a thorough discussion with the homeowner on the best solution for remediating the mold in the attic and preventing it from recurring. Our solution was to remove all the mold that was in the attic and make sure that the soffit vents were breathing properly and had directional airflow up the roof deck to be vented out of the ridge vent. Our next step was to add R-60 cellulose insulation to make sure the attic floor had a proper amount of insulation for the Michigan climate zone. The only challenge we came across was that it had rained on the day we were going to blow in the insulation so we had to cancel production day to another day that was weather permitting. We used a combination of products to get the attic healthy and properly insulated. We used a HEPA vacuum, Mold X2, Mold X2 Botanicals to remove the mold from the sheathing and trusses then installed DuroVent baffles to all of the bays with soffit vents. We then installed 15" of TruSoft Cellulose insulation on top of the existing blown in fiberglass insulation to achieve an R-60 Thermal Boundary. The homeowner now has a mold free attic that will pass a home inspection so she can sell her home and also has an excellent selling feature with her attic now being energy efficient for Michigan's climate zone. Home was put back on the market and sold immediately.

  The homeowner went up into his attic and noticed mold growth on his roof deck and his attic insulation was extremely dirty. Mold was present all over the deck and the attic had hot/humid air that was not being vented out properly. The soffits were blocked with previously blown in insulation and the attic floor had not been air sealed allowing conditioned air from the home to lead into the attic. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because he was concerned about the structural integrity and life of his roof. He also wanted to save more on his heating and cooling bills. The homeowner's biggest concern was that the mold in his attic was unhealthy to have in his home and that it would ruin his life expectancy of his roof.

  The homeowner chose our company because we were very thorough with the inspection and was able to explain to him clearly what needed to be done to resolve the problem. He also noted he just wanted to get everything updated at his home so he wouldn't leave his kids any expenses that needed to be put out to sell the home one day. Our solution was to clean the roof deck and trusses free of mold and install the proper amount of baffles into the soffits. We would then completely remove the Blown in Fiberglass and batt insulation that was on the attic floor and air seal the attic floor. Once the attic floor has been air sealed we would then blow in all new Cellulose to R60. We did experience some challenges with getting the mold removed from the roof deck as it was embedded deep into the wood. Removing the insulation also posed a challenge due to insulation being blown on top of the batt insulation made it more time consuming to switch techniques for removal. We used a combination of products. To remove the mold we used a HEPA vacuums and then treated the attic with RMR-86 and RMR-141. We then installed DuroVent baffles to all bays that had soffits in them. For insulation we used ZypFoam for air sealing the attic floor and then blew in 17 inches of TruSoft Stabilized Cellulose for an R-60 value, 4 inches SilveGlow foam board for insulating the hatch cover to R-20 and weather-stripping to create an airtight seal around the hatch. The homeowner now has a mold free attic and an energy efficient attic floor in Michigan with R-60 insulation, reducing the cost of his heating and cooling bills.

  The homeowner explained that he noticed his Fireplace Den in the house that is also adjacent to the garage was always cold during the winter months and warm during the summer. He also explained that he would like to make improvements with making his home more energy efficient with current tax breaks. The symptoms of the problem were that the Fireplace Den was 5-10 degrees colder/warmer than the rest of the house depending on the season. The problem was caused by not having the exterior top plates air sealed, previous blown fiberglass was not blown all the way to the eave and the vertical wall inside the garage that was adjacent to the attic of the Fireplace Den was insulated with a loose fill of fiberglass that had settled. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because his office is in the Fireplace Den and he is always uncomfortable staying in there for long periods of time as he would either get cold during the winter or hot during the summer. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem is that he is having knee surgery and will be spending lots of time in the Den working from home and does not want to be uncomfortable while trying to work and needing to get up constantly. He also has a attic above the bedrooms on his top floor that he wanted to improve to an energy star rating with current utility costs.

  The homeowner chose our company because we were able to show him where and why all the problems he was experiencing existed and how we would be able to fix them that made sense to him. With the tour for two he was able to come to the conclusion that improving the insulation in his attics would not only save him money in the long run but would also make his family more comfortable year round. Our solution for the Fireplace Den attic was to remove the blown fiberglass and the fiberglass batt from the attic floor and remove the loose fiberglass that was installed in front of the vertical wall adjacent to the garage attic. We then air sealed the exterior top plates and filled the attic floor to an R49 R-value to achieve an energy star rating. We then installed a 4" SilverGlo foam board with a radiant barrier on either side that has an R20 R-value across the entire front of the vertical wall. For the upper level attic we removed the fiberglass batt insulation and loose fiberglass insulation, covered and air sealed the drop soffit over the shower and linen closet and then air sealed and insulated the attic floor to an R60 R-value. One of the challenges that we faced was the attic floor above the Fireplace Den was a vaulted ceiling with a steep pitch that made it difficult to get to the eaves. We used a combination of products to achieve our solution. We used ZypFoam, 4" SilverGlo, Rockwool EZ Roll sleeve, Fire Caulk, TruSoft Venting Baffles, Weather-stripping and TruSoft Cellulose. The homeowner now has a more comfortable living space and his attic floors have now been insulated to an Energy Star Rating R49 above the Fireplace Den and R60 above the bedrooms on the upper level.

  The homeowner had just moved in and had a home inspection done before he purchased the home and Mold was found in the attic during the inspection. The home inspection also stated that the insulation should be upgraded as the attic floor contained only R19 fiberglass batt insulation and 4" of blown fiberglass insulation for an R value of only R30. The symptoms of the problem were dark stains on the trusses and roof sheathing inside the attic. The upstairs temperature was noticeably warmer than the main floor. When using a thermal camera, the attic floor was 8-10 degrees warmer than the inside temperature settings of the home and the whole house attic fan louver temperature was right around 100 degrees. The problems were caused by a lack of ventilation through the soffit vents as they had been completely blocked by the insulation that had been insulated without baffles to make sure they were still breathing properly. The upstairs temperature was warmer than the main floor level because the attic floor lacked insulation to effectively retain the temperature in the home. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because he had just moved into the home and could already tell that his upstairs was uncomfortably warmer than the rest of the home. He also explained that he did not want to have his family members living under the roof knowing that he had a very bad mold problem that could cause health issues. The homeowner's biggest concern was that it would cost even more money down the road when the roof becomes structurally compromised and would need to be replaced before even reaching the expected life expectancy and could potentially leak water to the conditioned space below causing even more damage.

  The homeowner chose our company because we built a solid report with the customer during the inspection and we were able to get him into the attic to let him see with his own eyes where the problems were coming from and how we would be able to solve the issues with our solutions provided. Our solution was to remove all of the dirty/contaminated insulation from the attic floor to start with a clean surface and then remediate the mold in his attic. We would then install baffles into the eaves between the rafters to make sure that airflow was not being restricted coming into the attic through the soffit vents. We then would air seal the penetrations in the attic floor (Top plate, Bond plates, Wire and Pipe penetrations ect.). We would seal the gap around the metal chimney stack with metal flashing and install a rockwool sleeve around the chimney stack for fire safety. The whole house fan would be covered with a whole house fan cover box made out of foam board insulation with a radiant barrier on either side. The gable vents needed to be covered as the attic relies on High and Low ventilation and would cause cross ventilation. The recessed lighting would be covered with rockwool can light covers and air sealed to the attic floor and then lastly we would install cellulose insulation to an R60 value. Some of the challenges that we faced during the installation process was the heat in the attic and the height of the attic was short. We used MoldX2 products, SilverGlo, Weather stripping, Fire Caulk, Metal Flashing, Rock wool chimney sleeve, OSB, ZypFoam, Titeshell Recessed Light Fixture Covers and TruSoft Cellulose. The homeowner now has a healthy, clean attic and the upstairs temperature is consistent with the temperature on the main floor.

  The Homeowner noticed bathroom fans that were venting into the attic space and a considerable amount of mold throughout the attic and how dirty the attic insulation was.  The attic had high humidity, mold staining across the roof deck and dirty insulation on the attic floor that was covered with insects.  The problems in the attic were caused by bathroom fan vents being vented into the attic causing humid air to condensate on the roof deck.  Soffits were being blocked with previously installed blown in fiberglass insulation not allowing proper ventilation to flow from the soffits to the ridge.  The attic floor also contained many penetrations that were not air sealed to prevent conditioned air from the home to enter into the attic space.  The Homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because we did a thorough inspection throughout the attic and were able to show why these problems existed and how we could fix them properly.   The biggest concerns the Homeowners had with the problems in the attic were the health aspects of moving into a new home that contained mold/moisture issues.

  TCI Remediation was chosen by the homeowner because we were able to show her that doing nothing or simply just cleaning the mold was not going to solve the problem at any cost.  We were thorough with what needed to be done and why.  Our solution to the problem was to remove the mold from the roof deck and trusses and remove all the contaminated blown in fiberglass from the attic floor, and to clear the insulation at the eaves blocking the ventilation from the soffits. We then air sealed all wire penetrations, top plates and bottom plates and covered the attic floor with stabilized cellulose insulation up to R-60.  We also installed insulated ducting to the bath fans and directed them out the attic space through gable vents.  we used a combination combination of products, RMR-86 to remove the mold and mildew stains. RMR-141 was used as a fungicide and disinfectant.  TruSoft Stabilized Cellulose Insulation was used to insulate and ZypFoam was used to air seal the attic floor. SilverGlo Polstyrene radiant barrier faced foam board was used to cover the hatch cover and weather stripping under the hatch cover was installed to create an airtight hatch. The homeowner now has a mold free attic space that is being properly ventilated and a more energy efficient attic with R-60 insulation and an air sealed attic floor.

  The homeowner had her attic remediated three years ago by a different company and she has mold re-growing on her sheathing. She explained that the company told her that they corrected the ventilation and yet they only installed half the amount of baffles that they were needed, leaving the other soffit vents blocked with insulation. Her other concern was that her bathroom fan exhaust vents on the gable wall were blocked by bird nests and not allowing the humid air from the bathrooms to vent out of the attic properly. Mold growth was present on the roof sheathing and trusses within the attic. The problem was caused by lack of intake ventilation coming from  the soffit vents that had still been blocked by insulation and baffles not being installed. A lack of insulation was also allowing the heat from the conditioned space below to radiate into the attic and cause condensation to form on the roof deck. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because they had mold remediation done previously in the attic that the problem had been corrected. They wanted a solution that would be permanent and would not be a recurring problem that they would have to pay every few years to be dealt with. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem was that it not corrected the first time by the company that had claimed that they had fixed the cause of the problem even though she went into the attic herself and discovered that not to be true after seeing that her soffit vents were still blocked and the baffles that they had installed were not even stapled to the sheathing.

  The homeowner chose our company because she got into the attic with us and we were able to show her the ventilation problems that the previous remediation company did not correct and she understood how correcting these problems would correct the regrowth of mold in the attic from returning. Our solution was to remove the contaminated/dirty blown in fiberglass and fiberglass batt insulation from the attic floor in order to seal the gaps in the attic floor that were allowing warm air from thee conditioned space below to radiate into the attic (top plate, bond plate, wire and pipe penetrations ect.). We then remediate the mold in the attic space to make sure that the attic would be clean and healthy. We removed the baffles that were previously installed and installed the correct size baffles for 24" on center rafters to make sure the soffits were breathing properly. We air sealed and insulated the attic hatch cover and installed can light covers over the recessed lighting. We removed the bird nests that were blocking the air path inside the gable wall vents for the bathroom fan exhausts and installed insulated ducking and air sealed around the gap to prevent backdraft airflow from venting back into the attic. Lastly we insulated the attic floor with Cellulose to R60. The only challenge that we faced during the installation process was one portion inside the attic was limited in height between the roof deck and attic floor making it difficult to access. We used MoldX2 products, Masterflow Insulated Ducting, SilverGlo, Weather stripping, ZypFoam, DuroVent Baffles, Titeshell Recessed light fixture cover, TruSoft Cellulose Insulation. The homeowner now has a more comfortable upstairs year around that retains the temperature that the thermostat is set to. She also has a mold free clean and healthy attic that is breathing properly.

  The homeowner has been experiencing issues with allergies in the home and everything in the home was extremely clean until they looked up in their attic and noticed a lot of white and black fungal growth all over the attic sheathing and trusses. Mold growth was present all over the roof sheathing and trusses and mold was also present on the insulation. The attic was very humid with little to no air flow. The soffit vents had been completely blocked with blown in fiberglass insulation preventing any air intake into the attic. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because she has people in her family who are very allergic to mold and she did not want to have them over and staying upstairs knowing that she had a very bad mold problem above them. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem was that the mold problem within her attic was so extensive that she could smell the VOC's in the home and she did not want to have anyone in the house while her attic posed a health risk.

  The homeowner chose our company because we were able to identify the root cause for the mold growth in the attic and we were the only remediation company that she had out that would tackle removing the insulation as well and reinstall new insulation. Our solution was to vacuum out all the blown in fiberglass insulation from the attic floor and soffits and then remove the fiberglass batt insulation from the attic floor. We then remediate the mold from the attic  sheathing and trusses and made sure to clear the soffit vents and install baffles to allow airflow into the attic. Our next solution was to air seal the attic floor to prevent warm air from rising into the attic during the winter months to prevent high humidity and then install fresh clean cellulose insulation to R60. We did not face any challenges during the installation process as everything went smoothly as planned. We used MoldX2 products for cleaning the mold on the roof sheathing and trusses, Master flow Insulated ducting, SilverGlo, Weather-stripping, ZypFoam and TruSoft Cellulose Insulation. The homeowner now has a healthy clean attic and the home no longer contains a musty smell upstairs. The homeowner now has an energy star rated home and is experiencing a more comfortable upstairs year round while saving more money on their bills then the project.

  The homeowner explained that he had a gas heater installed in the garage to prevent the exposed pipes from freezing within the garage. His problems was that the garage attic floor has no insulation on it causing all of the heat in his garage that he's paying for to radiate towards the attic and leave very quickly causing the heater to run constantly to make up for the heat continually being lost. The symptoms of the problem were high energy gas bills. The problem was caused by having no insulation on the attic floor while trying to retain the heat in the garage to keep the pipes from freezing. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because the heater he had installed in his garage to prevent the pipes from freezing would just run constantly and his garage would not retain the heat he was paying for. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem was that he was spending more money than necessary to heat his garage since all the heat would be lost to the attic.

  The homeowner chose our company because we are a locally owned company and he found us in the local Marketeer magazine giving him a $200 coupon on insulation installation. Our solution was to air seal all the penetrations on the attic floor, Install baffles into the soffits to ensure proper unrestricted airflow, air seal and insulate the attic floor to an R49 R-value. The only challenge that we faced during the installation process was the slope of the driveway was too steep for out insulation truck to make it up so we had to park our truck at the bottom and bring all the supplies up to the garage. We used TruSoft Venting Baffles, Weather-stripping, Adhesive, 4" SilverGlo, Owens Corning Foam Board, ZypFoam, TruSoft Cellulose. The homeowner now has R49 R-Value Energy Star rated insulated garage attic floor that will now retain the heat in the garage much longer causing his energy consumption and bills to go down.

Insulation Installation and Home Comfort

Are areas in your home freezing cold in the winter and super-hot in the summer? Or just looking to improve your homes energy efficiency and comfort? the attic should be at the top of your priority list. Insulation and air sealing in the attic have a dramatic effect on the home's overall energy performance, and upgrades in this area can lead to significant savings on heating and cooling costs. 

Most homes in Michigan have R-30 (just under 10 inches) which was the previous code. With increasing to the current code of R-49 (approx. 15 inches) our homeowners experience significant savings on their heating bills and savings on their electric bills during the summer months when air conditioning is used. Think of your home like a large bag surrounding your living environment. If you turn your furnace or air conditioning off how long will the hot or cold air stay within your home? The more thermal barrier to the outside environment you have the less your equipment will run saving you money and increasing comfort

How the attic impacts home comfort

Cellulose insulation can be installed over existing insulation without interfering with your storage area

About 50% of energy costs are typically attributed to heating and cooling, making it one of the biggest expenses for many homeowners. The attic has a major impact on home efficiency for several reasons:

• Air leaks and drafts between attic and living space
• Air leaks and drafts between attic and outdoors
• Poor or incorrect ventilation
• Insufficient attic insulation
• Uninsulated ductwork in the attic

Best methods for improving attic efficiency

• Air sealing: The first step to improving attic efficiency is air sealing. Your attic is full of gaps and cracks that allows conditioned air to escape from the living space into the attic and unconditioned air to enter from the outside. Sealing these air leaks helps to keep your attic isolated from the outside and keeps conditioned air inside your home.
• Attic insulation: Many attics are lacking proper insulation, which is one of the biggest causes of energy waste and uncomfortable rooms. Raising attic insulation to proper levels prevents heat transfer between the attic and the living space, meaning your HVAC system will run less because conditioned air is being contained in the areas you want to heat and cool.
• Ductwork services: If you have ducts in your attic, they are affected by the extreme hot and cold temperatures that occur in that space. When you try to send cold air through hot ducts or vice versa, the air in the ducts is heated in summer (and cooled in the winter), making it difficult to heat or cool your home. Having ducts in attics is extremely inefficient, which is why duct sealing and duct insulation are smart upgrades for homeowners with ductwork in the attic.

Where Does Mold Grow?

First, it's important to know where to look. Mold tends to prefer cold, dark, and moist spaces. You probably won't find it in your living room, but your attic and crawlspace are much more likely hiding spots.

Mold will grow in places with a lot of moisture, such as around leaks in roofs, windows, or pipes, or where there has been flooding. Mold grows well on paper products, cardboard, ceiling tiles, and wood products. Mold can also grow in dust, paints, wallpaper, insulation, drywall, carpet, fabric, and upholstery.

And that's not all. You might also find it in doorways, windows, heating and air conditioning systems. It enters your home either through the air or by being attached to other moldy items like old shoes or newspapers. Once it's there, it's difficult to get rid of.

Signs of Mold

The health risks of mold make looking for early signs that it's growing into your home absolutely crucial. If you see even subtle signs, it might be time to call for professional help to take care of the remediation. Some of these signs include:

Irritated lungs and breathing, similar to allergy symptoms.

A musty smell in the home or areas of the house.

Visible mold, both black and with potentially colored spots.

Water leaks, past flooding, or persistent condensation.

Rust and warping of materials due to humidity.

Most of these don't necessarily point directly to mold growth. They just point towards an environment that encourages this growth. That's why simply looking for them doesn't tend to be enough. A more comprehensive inspection is vital to making sure you know about any potential problems.

Can Mold Harm Humans?

The problems with mold are much more than just an inconvenience. Studies have repeatedly shown the many health risks that the spores can bring with them. In fact, mold has been linked to anything from chronic coughs to allergic reactions, skin rashes, red eyes, and more. In some cases, it can get worse.

The reason mold removal services tend to be so important is what mold does to the health of some of the most vulnerable people around us. Most are particularly dangerous for those of us with autoimmune disorders, chronic lung disease, strong allergies, or asthma. And of course, it's worse for infants, children, and the elderly, whose immune systems might not be able to fight against it.

The lesson is clear: you don't want and probably can't afford to have mold in your home. Unfortunately, due to its favorite locations, it could also be difficult to find at times. A thorough inspection can help you find it, but looking out for early growth signs is also important.

Mold Prevention Tips

Ideally, you never let it get to a point where removal becomes a necessity. In the interest of your health and your home's value, you want to make sure that you can prevent rather than remediate the mold. A few tips can help you achieve that goal:

Keep the humidity in your home low, preferably under 40%.

Regularly check your home, particularly the potential problem spots mentioned above, for growth and take care of it early when needed.

Don't let wet areas stay wet. Dry them to make sure they don't become a hospitable environment.

During renovations, invest in mold-resistant drywall and sheetrock to create a less preferable environment.

Regularly clean your roof gutters to avoid any potential leaks or water entering the home in hidden spots.

Clean mold problems immediately, rather than letting it grow into a more significant problem.

It pays to be proactive. Still, you can't be expected to know every square inch of your home. In addition to these general tips, it pays to have regular mold inspections, both for your peace of mind and to be able to detect issues before they become major problems.