The Homeowner explained that after going into his attic he noticed dark staining all over the roof deck and could see mold growth all over the trusses. The symptoms of the problem were mold growth over all of the attic insulation, trusses and roof sheeting as well as the RH (relative humidity) in the attic was reading 67% with an outside temperature of 74 degrees and the air in the attic was stagnant. The problem was caused by ridge vent opening not being cut large enough when it was installed causing the air not to pulled into the attic from the soffits efficiency causing stagnant/humid air to stay in the attic. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because the mold growth was causing his roof sheeting to delaminate which will lower the longevity of the roof as well as making the roof structurally compromised. The homeowners biggest concern with the problem was that his family could become ill while under all of the mold above the living space.

  The homeowner chose our company because we were able to remove all of the contaminated insulation, do the mold remediation and then also be able to air seal the attic and reinsulate with cellulose insulation to an Energy Star rating. We were also able to identify the cause as to why the mold occurred and gave recommendations of roofers to fix the ventilation and how it would be fixed correctly. Our solution was to remove all of the insulation off the attic floor and clear the soffit vents that had been blown over with insulation, we then remediated the mold in the attic with HEPA vacuums and Mold X2 chemicals. The next day we then went and air sealed all of the top/bond plates, wire/pipe penetration on the attic floor with ZypFoam. We covered the recessed light fixtures with rock wool can light covers as a fire safety hazard and to prevent heat loss from the conditioned air below from leaking into the attic, air seal and insulate the hatch cover and then blow Cellulose insulation to an R49 R-level. One of our challenges that we faced during the installation process was the vaulted ceiling pitch. It made it very difficult to get down to the soffits to clear the insulation with our insulation vacuum hose. The heat was also a challenge as the attic was roughly 120-130 degrees Fahrenheit. We used a combination of products to achieve our end results. We used Mold X2 Remediation products, TruSoft 22" x 4' and 22" x 6' Rafter vents (Baffles), Titeshell Recessed Light Fixture Covers (Rockwool Covers), ZypFoam, Weather-stripping, SilverGlo Graphite Infused Polystyrene Foam Board (hatch Cover Insulation), Owens Corning 1/2" foam board (insulation Collar) and TruSoft Cellulose blown to 14" or R49. The homeowner now has a clean healthy attic that is both mold free and insulated to an R49 Energy Star rating that has helped lower the energy bills as well as improved the overall comfort in that home.

The homeowner explained that they had gone up into the attic and noticed that all of the roof sheathing was black and what they believed was mold. The symptoms of the problem were high humidity and heat in the attic. Rusty water droplets were found all over the attic floor and a musty smell could be detected in the attic. The problem was actually a combination of two things. First the bathroom fan ducts were venting towards a soffit vent and not to a designated vent that takes the warm humid air out of the attic space. The second problem was that the soffit vents were blocked with insulation that was installed without any blockers causing the insulation to fall down the soffit vents. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because the mold could potentially cause health problems to himself and his family and during the warm months of the year the upstairs had a slight musty smell that was coming from the attic into their living space. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem was the health aspect for his family living under all of the mold that was in the attic. Some members of the family have seasonal allergies and having mold in the attic would only exacerbate the symptoms.

  The homeowner chose our company because we were very fair/similar in price to some of the other companies that provided quotes, but the customer thought that our knowledge of our products, what cause the problem and how it can be fixed was superior. Our solution was to remove all insulation from the attic floor as it had been impacted by all of the mold in the attic. We then cleared all of the soffit vents from insulation and installed baffles to ensure the air passage was free and clear. The homeowner had someone reroute the bath fan ducts to roof vents to prevent the humid air from being sucked back in through the soffits. We then cleaned all of the roof sheathing and trusses with a mold and mildew stain remover and then applied an antimicrobial solution to the affected areas of the attic to kill the mold. After that we covered all of the can light covers with rockwool for a fire safety precaution and then air sealed the attic floor top/bond plates, wire penetrations and pipe penetrations to stop the air leaks from the conditioned space below. After all of the air sealing had been done we then installed 17" or R60 TruSoft cellulose insulation on the attic floor to achieve the highest Energy Star Rating. One of the challenges that we faced during the installation process was the heat inside the attic. It was roughly 90 degrees outside making the inside temp of the attic around 130-140 degrees. Despite the pitch of the roof, we were able to get a sprinkler on the peak of the roof to help lower the inside temperature of the attic. We used a combination of products to achieve our end results. We used, Mold X2 products, DuroVent rafter vents (Baffles), 7/16" OSB for covering the the drop soffits, R20 SilverGlo Polystyrene Foam Board, TiteShell Recessed Light Fixture Covers, Fireblock ZypFoam, Owens Corning 1/2" Foamboard, All Grip 60 Adhesive, Weather-stripping and TruSoft Cellulose. The Homeowner now has a healthy, clean attic that no longer is contaminated with mold throughout the attic. They now are saving on their energy bills now that they have an air sealed attic that is insulated to the highest Energy Star Rating of R60.

  The homeowner explained that while he was looking into the attic to find where he would be running new wires for new electrical outlets he noticed that his sheathing in the attic was completely black and mold was all over. The symptoms of the problem were very high humidity in the attic, Stagnant air, Mold growth present on all of the roof and gable sheathing as well as the trusses and insulation. The problem was caused by a lack of intake ventilation in the attic. The attic ventilation relies on High and Low ventilation ie. Ridge vent and Soffit vents. The Fiberglass batt insulation was installed all the way up to the roof deck without baffles, closing off the air intake from the soffit vents. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because he did not want mold in his home and he needed to do some rewiring in his home and he did not want to go into the attic and potentially get himself sick as well as contaminate the inside of his living space and produce a much bigger problem. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem was the health of his family. Being that mold is a allergen, he didn't want his family to endure any health effects caused by the mold. The homeowner chose our company because we were able to provide a detailed solution on getting his attic back to a healthy state, as well as providing him with the means of saving money on his energy bills by upgrading his previous fiberglass batt insulation to cellulose. We were also able to work with him by doing the job in two parts by removing the insulation and remediating the mold in one part, giving him the ability to run new wires in the attic, and then coming back another scheduled day to re-install the new insulation.

  Our solution was to remove all of the fiberglass batt insulation from the attic floor and then remediate the mold in the attic from the roof deck, trusses and floor. We then installed a structural covering made of OSB over the sloped open staircase ceiling from inside the attic and sealed it airtight with expanding polyurethane foam. After that we installed all new insulation ducts (provided by the homeowner) and sealed them against the gable wall with expanding polyurethane foam. We then installed 4" SilverGlo foam board on top of the hatch cover to provide insulation for the hatch and sealed the bottom of the hatch with weather-stripping to prevent air leaks. We then installed a David Lewis Whole House Fan Cover over the whole house fan to insulate a rather large area of the attic floor that would otherwise be insulated. We sealed all the top plates, bond plates, wire and pipe penetrations with one part expanding polyurethane foam and then insulated the attic floor to an Energy Star Rating with 17" of cellulose to R60. One of the challenges that we faced during the installation was the whole house fan being directly in the middle of the run of the attic as well as being in front of the attic hatch. This made it difficult for getting in and out of the attic. We used a combination of products to achieve our solution. We used Mold X2 products, 4'x22" DuroVent rafter (baffles), 7/16" OSB, 4" SilverGlo foamboard, weather-stripping, adhesive caulk, ZypFoam, David Lewis Whole House Fan Cover and TruSoft Cellulose. The homeowner now has a clean, healty attic that is free of mold and is now insulated to the highest Energy Star Rating, providing them a more comfortable home while saving money on their energy bills

The homeowner explained that he has ice dam issues every year and he usually has to go outside and breakup the ice on the edge of his roof. He stated that he started to see wet spots on the walls on the inside of his house because the water from the ice dams were leaking into his home. The edge of the roof would get a large amount of ice every year, and water stains were occurring on the walls inside of the home. The problems were caused by a lack of insulation and a lack of ventilation coming through the soffits because they were blocked with the insulation installed. The attic floor exterior top plates had also not been air sealed allowing warm conditioned air in the winter to escape into the attic and warm the roof at the eaves and melt the snow. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because he was tired of having to scrape away at the ice building up on his roof and gutters as it was a hazard if one of them were to fall and hurt someone. He also did not want to have a bigger problem with the water that was coming in and causing water stains on his ceiling and walls from the ice melting. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem was that the ice dams were causing water to run into the house were causing water damage on his ceiling and walls. He was afraid that if this problem were to persist he would end up with mold and roof damage.

  The homeowner chose our company because we were able to identify the problems as to why he was getting ice dams to form and using thermal imaging we were able to show the homeowner the true problem with out him having to rely on just our word alone like some of the other companies that he had quoted him for just adding more insulation. We were also able to identify mold growth that he had on the north side of his attic due to lack of insulation and ventilation. Our solution was to remove all of the insulation on the attic floor in order for us to properly air seal all of the holes and gaps in the attic floor (top plates, bond plates, wire penetrations, pipe penetration, ect.) in order to stop the conditioned air that was being heated during the winter from rising into the clean attic. We air sealed and insulated the hatch opening and then filled the attic floor with cellulose insulation to R60 value. Some of the challenges that we faced during the process was the size of the opening to the attic. It was extremely difficult to get the bagged fiberglass batt insulation through the access hole and it also made it difficult for getting in and out of the attic. We used Mold X2, SilverGlo, weather-stripping, ZypFoam DuroVent Baffles and TruSoft Cellulose. The homeowner now has a more comfortable and energy efficient home and he has not experienced any ice dam issues since we have completed the project.

Insulation Installation and Home Comfort

Are areas in your home freezing cold in the winter and super-hot in the summer? Or just looking to improve your homes energy efficiency and comfort? the attic should be at the top of your priority list. Insulation and air sealing in the attic have a dramatic effect on the home's overall energy performance, and upgrades in this area can lead to significant savings on heating and cooling costs. 

Most homes in Michigan have R-30 (just under 10 inches) which was the previous code. With increasing to the current code of R-49 (approx. 15 inches) our homeowners experience significant savings on their heating bills and savings on their electric bills during the summer months when air conditioning is used. Think of your home like a large bag surrounding your living environment. If you turn your furnace or air conditioning off how long will the hot or cold air stay within your home? The more thermal barrier to the outside environment you have the less your equipment will run saving you money and increasing comfort

How the attic impacts home comfort

Cellulose insulation can be installed over existing insulation without interfering with your storage area

About 50% of energy costs are typically attributed to heating and cooling, making it one of the biggest expenses for many homeowners. The attic has a major impact on home efficiency for several reasons:

• Air leaks and drafts between attic and living space
• Air leaks and drafts between attic and outdoors
• Poor or incorrect ventilation
• Insufficient attic insulation
• Uninsulated ductwork in the attic
• Best methods for improving attic efficiency

Air sealing: The first step to improving attic efficiency is air sealing. Your attic is full of gaps and cracks that allows conditioned air to escape from the living space into the attic and unconditioned air to enter from the outside. Sealing these air leaks helps to keep your attic isolated from the outside and keeps conditioned air inside your home.

Attic insulation: Many attics are lacking proper insulation, which is one of the biggest causes of energy waste and uncomfortable rooms. Raising attic insulation to proper levels prevents heat transfer between the attic and the living space, meaning your HVAC system will run less because conditioned air is being contained in the areas you want to heat and cool.

Ductwork services: If you have ducts in your attic, they are affected by the extreme hot and cold temperatures that occur in that space. When you try to send cold air through hot ducts or vice versa, the air in the ducts is heated in summer (and cooled in the winter), making it difficult to heat or cool your home. Having ducts in attics is extremely inefficient, which is why duct sealing and duct insulation are smart upgrades for homeowners with ductwork in the attic.

Where Does Mold Grow?

First, it's important to know where to look. Mold tends to prefer cold, dark, and moist spaces. You probably won't find it in your living room, but your attic and crawlspace are much more likely hiding spots.

Mold will grow in places with a lot of moisture, such as around leaks in roofs, windows, or pipes, or where there has been flooding. Mold grows well on paper products, cardboard, ceiling tiles, and wood products. Mold can also grow in dust, paints, wallpaper, insulation, drywall, carpet, fabric, and upholstery.

And that's not all. You might also find it in doorways, windows, heating and air conditioning systems. It enters your home either through the air or by being attached to other moldy items like old shoes or newspapers. Once it's there, it's difficult to get rid of.

Signs of Mold

The health risks of mold make looking for early signs that it's growing into your home absolutely crucial. If you see even subtle signs, it might be time to call for professional help to take care of the remediation. Some of these signs include:

Irritated lungs and breathing, similar to allergy symptoms.

A musty smell in the home or areas of the house.

Visible mold, both black and with potentially colored spots.

Water leaks, past flooding, or persistent condensation.

Rust and warping of materials due to humidity.

Most of these don't necessarily point directly to mold growth. They just point towards an environment that encourages this growth. That's why simply looking for them doesn't tend to be enough. A more comprehensive inspection is vital to making sure you know about any potential problems.

Can Mold Harm Humans?

The problems with mold are much more than just an inconvenience. Studies have repeatedly shown the many health risks that the spores can bring with them. In fact, mold has been linked to anything from chronic coughs to allergic reactions, skin rashes, red eyes, and more. In some cases, it can get worse.

The reason mold removal services tend to be so important is what mold does to the health of some of the most vulnerable people around us. Most are particularly dangerous for those of us with autoimmune disorders, chronic lung disease, strong allergies, or asthma. And of course, it's worse for infants, children, and the elderly, whose immune systems might not be able to fight against it.

The lesson is clear: you don't want and probably can't afford to have mold in your home. Unfortunately, due to its favorite locations, it could also be difficult to find at times. A thorough inspection can help you find it, but looking out for early growth signs is also important.

Mold Prevention Tips

Ideally, you never let it get to a point where removal becomes a necessity. In the interest of your health and your home's value, you want to make sure that you can prevent rather than remediate the mold. A few tips can help you achieve that goal:

Keep the humidity in your home low, preferably under 40%.

Regularly check your home, particularly the potential problem spots mentioned above, for growth and take care of it early when needed.

Don't let wet areas stay wet. Dry them to make sure they don't become a hospitable environment.

During renovations, invest in mold-resistant drywall and sheetrock to create a less preferable environment.

Regularly clean your roof gutters to avoid any potential leaks or water entering the home in hidden spots.

Clean mold problems immediately, rather than letting it grow into a more significant problem.

It pays to be proactive. Still, you can't be expected to know every square inch of your home. In addition to these general tips, it pays to have regular mold inspections, both for your peace of mind and to be able to detect issues before they become major problems.